{"id":2255,"date":"2004-07-15T22:05:08","date_gmt":"2004-07-16T02:05:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/engineering.jhu.edu\/magazine-archive\/?p=2255"},"modified":"2014-12-15T22:06:43","modified_gmt":"2014-12-16T03:06:43","slug":"3-d-waves-2-5-d-tank","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/engineering.jhu.edu\/magazine-archive\/2004\/07\/3-d-waves-2-5-d-tank\/","title":{"rendered":"3-D Waves in a 2.5-D Tank"},"content":{"rendered":"

Building a wide wave tank will give coastal engineer Robert A. \u201cTony\u201d Dalrymple a dynamic tool for predicting the behavior of shorelines.<\/strong><\/p>\n

From now on, you won\u2019t have to travel \u201cdown the ocean\u201d from the Homewood campus to hear the sound of pounding surf. In fact, the waves will be just a few blocks away in the former Stieff Silver building, now home to the Whiting School Department of Civil Engineering\u2019s Coastal Engineering Laboratory. The 20,000-gallon wave tank there will be the first facility of its kind at Johns Hopkins\u2014and the only one of its design in the nation, according to the lab\u2019s director, Robert A. \u201cTony\u201d Dalrymple, the Willard and Lillian Hackerman Professor of Civil Engineering and chair of the department.<\/p>\n

Now in its final stages of construction, the wave tank is an aquarium-like steelframed rectangular structure 58 feet long, 8 feet wide, and 6 feet tall. At one end of the tank will sit the \u201cwave maker,\u201d a motorized set of four paddles that can be programmed independently to operate at varying speeds. The tank\u2019s floor gently rises to the opposite end, simulating a sloping beach and constructed of plastic panels on an aluminum frame. Overhead, a steel T-rail runs the full length along one side of the tank, and a 30-foot linearrail set runs along the other. Two remotely controlled instrument carts will track wave motion below.<\/p>\n

To understand this wave tank\u2019s unique properties, says Dalrymple, you first need to know the difference between a wave basin and a wave tank, both of which are used by coastal engineers to investigate the hydrodynamics of wave action. \u201cWave basins are very large, three-dimensional structures that allow you to send waves in at different directions,\u201d he notes, \u201cwhile a wave tank tends to be two-dimensional because it\u2019s very narrow. However, our wave tank is one of the widest in the U.S., and uses four paddles instead of the usual one to generate wave action.\u201d As a result, the hydraulic piston-actuated paddles can be phased to generate either a single wave traveling straight down the tank or a series of waves moving at different angles and frequencies, says Dalrymple. \u201cEach wave can have a different direction associated with it, so we can generate a fairly realistic sea state,\u201d he explains. \u201cIn other words, our tank is very versatile. It can simulate the properties of a 3-D wave basin in a two-dimensional tank.\u201d To be precise, it\u2019s 2.5-D, according to graduate student Asher Peltz who is in charge of the construction and the data analysis to come. Funding for the wave tank research comes from Johns Hopkins and from the Office of Naval Research.<\/p>\n

When Shorelines Suddenly Shift<\/strong><\/p>\n

Why study waves? In the complex and often theoretical discipline of coastal engineering, there are some very solid reasons. The field itself focuses on two interrelated studies\u2014wave mechanics and sediment transport. Both are key in understanding and, to a certain extent, predicting the course of shifting shorelines due to sudden storms or slow attrition.<\/p>\n

\u201cControlling beach erosion\u2014that\u2019s the big Holy Grail of what we do as coastal engineers,\u201d says Dalrymple. \u201cOur goal is to be able to predict the behavior of a shoreline over both short and long periods of time. If a northeaster comes to Ocean City, Maryland, tomorrow, we want to be able to predict what the beach will look like after that storm\u2014and whether to evacuate people, even when we have only a day or two of advance notice.\u201d<\/p>\n

By contrast, long-term forecasting focuses on the possible impact of major shoreline projects (such as the modification of an inlet or the construction of a large, beach-front building) over a period of years. Dalrymple notes that this type of forecasting also has a direct application for the petroleum industry, in assessing the construction of offshore drilling platforms and large tanker vessels and how both interact with ocean waves.<\/p>\n

Into the \u201cJaws\u201d Surfers Love<\/strong><\/p>\n

In a sense, Tony Dalrymple has always been looking beneath the waves for answers. As an engineering undergraduate at Dartmouth in the late 1960s, he imagined himself building deep-sea human habitats. Then, as a graduate student studying in conducive locales like Hawaii and Florida, Dalrymple found his true calling. After a 29-year teaching stint at the University of Delaware, during which time he founded and directed its renowned Center for Applied Coastal Research, he joined the Whiting School in 2002 as the Hackerman Professor and chair (in 1999-2000 he was a visiting professor at the Whiting School). Considered to be one of the foremost researchers in the field of coastal engineering and wave mechanics, he is often sought out for his expertise on wave-related issues, including one that he laughingly refers to as \u201cmy 15 minutes of fame!\u201d<\/p>\n\"16_17001\"<\/a>\n

In 1998, during the preparation of a cover story, National Geographic researchers approached Dalrymple with a request\u2014 would he be willing to take a look at \u201cJaws?\u201d In this case, \u201cJaws\u201d was not a ravenous shark, but a famed surfing spot just off the northern beaches of Hawaii\u2019s Maui Island. What the magazine wanted Dalrymple to explain was why suddenly, and for no apparent reason, the waves at Jaws would swell as high as 70 feet. While this phenomenon delighted surfers, its cause remained a mystery.<\/p>\n

Consulting a hydrographic survey, showing depth measurements in that area, Dalrymple input these data into a wave-modeling program that he and another colleague had developed at the University of Delaware. Right away, he saw that the basis for the huge waves was very simple. A submerged ridge formed by ancient lava flows caused the ocean floor at Jaws to rise rapidly from 120 feet to 30 feet. While normal waves passing over the ridge were unaffected, more powerful storm swells moving from deep sea to shore \u201creally tripped over the ridge,\u201d says Dalrymple. \u201cThese big storm waves shoaled up and refracted on this ridge, which focused them to a point.\u201d The result of this refraction\u2014pinching the wave so that its power is directed inward and upward\u2014was one monster wave after another. Dalrymple\u2019s solution to the Jaws mystery was featured in the October 1998 issue of National Geographic and discussed in a report on CNN.<\/p>\n

Breaking Down Waves by the Numbers<\/strong><\/p>\n

These days, Dalrymple is more than content to pursue his core interest in studying wave dynamics. Aside from analyzing wave action in his lab\u2019s new wave tank, he is also looking at other research possibilities through computer-based modeling. \u201cThe theoretical basis of what I do has changed enormously over the last 30 years,\u201d he notes. \u201cThe sophisticated numerical tools and computing power that we can bring to bear on problems now are much more powerful than previously.\u201d<\/p>\n

As examples, Dalrymple cites two programs he has developed. One, a Java software applet he calls the \u201cNortheaster Risk Index\u201d JOHNS HOPKINS ENGINEER SUMMER 2004 17 lets the investigator assess the risk potential of a northeaster storm\u2019s impact in breaching coastal dunes and flooding inland. \u201cThe program\u2019s predicative modeling is done empirically, based on historical data,\u201d he says. \u201cBut I\u2019d like to do the same modeling with real-time data and be able to predict that kind of behavior on the fly.\u201d<\/p>\n

The second, more sophisticated, wave model takes a page from astrophysics, specifically Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH). As Dalrymple explains it, most wave models of the past are bound by the limitations of their mathematical theories, evidenced by the crudeness of the models themselves when they are replicated in a digital environment. However, SPH, which was used originally to model the dynamics of a galaxy and the stars within it as interactive particles, shows great promise. According to Dalrymple, \u201cSPH gives a more accurate way of depicting wave action, including splashing, by tracking each particle of water and seeing where it goes. We\u2019re one of the few groups in the country working with this technique.\u201d<\/p>\n

However, there is a drawback\u2014the need for immense computing power in generating these models. At present, Dalrymple is limited to models using up to 100,000 particles, but hopes eventually to create models composed of millions of them.<\/p>\n

Even as his research continues to evolve, Dalrymple can still marvel at the complex challenges presented by a simple ocean wave. \u201cWhen you look at a breaking wave, all you see is a lot of foam and turbulence,\u201d he says. \u201cBut if you tried to describe that mathematically, you would throw up your hands. There\u2019s a lot of organization inside of a breaking wave, from activity resembling internal tornadoes to vortices on its surface. Where these come from, nobody knows. What we\u2019re interested in is the science that explains how a wave that has no turbulence in its structure suddenly develops that turbulence when it breaks. We have theories that take waves right up to breaking, but when they do break, all bets are off.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"From<\/a>
From marine-grade plywood, glass, plastic, and steel, Coastal Engineering Laboratory researchers are constructing a supersized wave tank in the former Stieff Silver building.<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

For photos of the wave tank\u2019s construction, visit the Coastal Engineering Laboratory at www.ce.jhu.edu\/apeltz\/wavelab.html<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Building a wide wave tank will give coastal engineer Robert A. \u201cTony\u201d Dalrymple a dynamic tool for predicting the behavior of shorelines. From now on, you won\u2019t have to travel \u201cdown the ocean\u201d from the Homewood campus to hear the sound of pounding surf. In fact, the waves will be just a few blocks away…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":2260,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[28],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2255","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-features","issue-summer-2004"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n3-D Waves in a 2.5-D Tank - JHU Engineering Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/engineering.jhu.edu\/magazine-archive\/2004\/07\/3-d-waves-2-5-d-tank\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"3-D Waves in a 2.5-D Tank - JHU Engineering Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Building a wide wave tank will give coastal engineer Robert A. \u201cTony\u201d Dalrymple a dynamic tool for predicting the behavior of shorelines. 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